Japan, November, 1986
Hong Kong, December, 1986
Jack’s Essay on 1986 Japan Trip
For several years Jack had suggested that we take the kids out of school and travel around the world for about 6 months. LLH, being more conservative, thought the time not right until the summer of 1986: “I was unhappy with the atmosphere at National Computer systems and thought I should change jobs. Coupled with a health challenge that necessitated a hysterectomy in July ‘86 followed by 6 weeks of mandatory rest, I had the time to think about our values and opportunities. I agreed with Jack.” Our 4-member family threw country ideas into a hat, cut them in half, then half again. Japan-Thailand-India&Nepal-Egypt-Greece-Italy and home via Germany. (We cut the last leg, England, that was to follow Italy; we were ready to get home!) Because Kristen needs to complete her fall semester in order to graduate high school, she stays with our neighbors, Steen and Ebel, and joins us in Thailand.
Nov 15, 1986: Jack, Linda and Fritz leave MSP at 6:32AM for Chicago (Kristen staying with Leslie Steen and Bob Ebel next door neighbors); here we are joined by adopted grandfather, Manny Elson. Our PanAm Around the World ticket routes us to Seattle then Tokyo where we arrive at 5:30PM on the 16th. Nov 17: We get up at 4AM. Jack and I walk from the Imperial Hotel (NWA coupons greatly cut the cost of two rooms) to the fish market. From 8:20 to 1PM we take a city bus tour; Two views of Tokyo from World Trade Tower.
11/17/86 - Tokyo. Imperial Palace grounds; Asakusa - Kannon Temple; Making offerings to the Buddha.
Asakusa - Kannon Temple; Shops along the Temple Way; Southern Belle look was 'in'; Gizo figure - offerings for dead & aborted children. After pearl gallery tour (a ploy of the tourbus company) Manny decides we've left him so he walks off. Jack reports him to Police & Embassy - he finally shows!
11/18/86 - Tokyo Fish Market. Up at 5:30AM & all four of us head to fish market: hundreds of tuna and swordfish etc. auctioned with nary a voice raised - hand signals; Tuna inspection; After market we have breakfast in the area; Can't understand menu so we find a local who speaks English to order for us. He asks if we like noodles. 'Yes,' so we get 4 bowls in broth!
11/20: We work with a fine local travel agency to plan our tour of Japan, using our Tokyo hotel as the base for runouts. Wanting an authentic Japanese experience, we're off to Yunishigawa Onsen (film destroyed) where no one speaks English! We travel by bullet train, local train, then bus high up into the mountains to the spa. EJ at Kanagawa changeover; A Samurai welcomes us in the spa where we must watch others in order to figure out what to do; A cab driver & his wife from Tokyo befriend us 2nd night. We are the rage--kind of exotic pets! Have delightful Japanese style rooms at Bonkyu Hotel. After soaking in hot springs - in tubs in room, in indoor and outdoor pools - we have dinner in private room. The chef speaks no English so doesn't respond to our asking for something to drink. Fritz finally gets us Cokes after he offers 'compliments to the cook.'! We eat salamanders and bear meat & who knows what else! in pools Japanese women try their English on me with such words as Dynasty, Dallas & Miami Vice.
11/21 - Visit to Heike Village (Yunishigawa Onsen). Hop hotel bus to visit the rebuilt homes of defeated Heike Samurai who hid in the mountains; Shinto cemetery in Y-Onsen.
11/22+23 - Nikko. At its Buddhist temples & Shinto shrines Fritz begins his Chop souvenir book (Go-Kenin); Garden Museum, built in compound of Rinnoji Temple; Three antique and modern monkeys; Sunset Gate - since one never wearies of it! Rinnoji Temple & Toshogu Shrine are set within 300 year old cedar trees. Sorinto pillar contains 1000 sutras.
More of Nikko. 'Shogun' burial; Tori Gate at shinto shrine - grand scale; Ieyaso Tokugawa is entombed here; Kokomon Gate - Nikko Mausoleum - Iyemitsu; 5 storey Buddhist pagoda; Mausoleum set at top of mountain.
Gods guard Nikko temples; Lumpy elephant.
11/23 - Nikko outskirts; Kegon Falls; Lake Chuzenji, from Buddhist temple; More jizo figures at Buddhist temple.
Shinto shrine at Chuzenji.
11/24&25. Gorgeous Hakone Naraya Ryokan. Our splendid, really perfect ryokan in Hakone, reputedly one of the best in Japan, certainly our finest accomodation on this trip segment.
![Interior scenes at Naraya Ryokan; Jack tries out phone equipment in antiquated 'Amusement Saloon'! [Foreign Closet] we knew where we belonged!](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/62e163b72ac2810ad9183578/089e8c77-7100-48cb-8d0a-37d651fb7145/Scan+19.jpeg)
Interior scenes at Naraya Ryokan; Jack tries out phone equipment in antiquated 'Amusement Saloon'! [Foreign Closet] we knew where we belonged!
Naraya garden scenes.
More Naraya scenes; Postcard perfect.
11/25/86 - Hakone Open Air Museum - the finest we'd ever seen! The morning fog is rolling back and forth over splendid statues - we are stunned! Mouths agape, we start to walk through this excellent environment.
11/25 (cont'd) - Owakudani Volcano Crater. Late PM we finally see Fuji and get a closer look via funicular; Sulphurous fumes; Lake Ashi. No boat, so back by funicular to Owakudani.
11/27 Kyoto: Junko is our student guide. Heian Shrine; We offer a Shinto prayer: 'May we have a safe, happy trip with our family around the world.' Murin-An, a lovely, small Kyoto garden that becomes on of our favorites.
11/27 - Nanzen-ji Temple. Many lovely gardens & sub temples.
On steps of adjacent Shinto shrine & Buddhist temple at Nanzen-ji; We end the day here; outside the gate a H.S. student quizzes us about Japan for his economics course. Dinner with Junko.
11/28 - Kyoto. Shokokuji Temple, Daitokuji, Imperial Palace, Nishijin Textile Museum, Gion Show. Shokokuji - Samurai film provides enjoyment but prevents our seeing much of the temple! Daitokuji Temple (several monasteries and exquisite gardens).
A beautiful gem.
Daitokuji, Hoshun-in Temple with its famous pavilion; Kyoto Imperial Palace (built in Heian period 1100 years ago, rebuilt in 1855 after fire); Main Shishinden Hall. Tale of Genji takes place here.
Palace Garden. Short, decent introduction--printed paper. We see fingernail, weaving, and kimono fashion show.
11/29/86. Training the evergreens.
Three more views of Shugakuin; then on to Shisen-do gem.
Shisen-do garden; Ryoanji Temple; Three Kyoto U. students take us around to practice their English.
11/30/86 - Nijo Castle. The ubiquitous picture posing.
11/30 - Afternoon (no photos allowed). Kiyomizu Temple; A long time to the top: dramatic temple where monks protest sales tax; More jizo; Lovely potter's house; Dinner with Bardwell Smith, Asian studies professor at Carleton College--(our wonderful meeting brokered by John Musser).
12/1 - Katsura Imperial Villa. Fritz is very sick so LLH nurses him in our hotel, the Miyako, while Jack & EJ go off alone to this beautiful villa; EJ at Imperial Gate.
More of Katsura. Sightseeing for F & L! Fritz' lovely doctor, called by the hotel, studied in Chicago, and said to see Katsura is a 'privilege.'
12/2/86 - Fritz still sick. J, L & EJ go to the Exhibition Center of Traditional Craft. At Linda's suggestion, JGH and LLH attend a Noh play that evening. Jack declares its 'No Drama' & says it is his last; A cab driver gave us these photos of the gold & silver pavilions since we couldn't see them - on strike!
12/3/86 - A bus trip to the countryside outside Kyoto to Ohara, a rural town with lovely temples and gardens. Manny tires and finds a local small restaurant where he raves about the tofu-filled soup (it is very good and very expensive!).
Sanzen-in Temple. We are told 'This is not a tourist spot' so we must go write a sutra as offering. Fortunately they gave us pictographs to copy (we liked this 'task.') We later walk through the woods, then hike to Jokko-in, a Buddhist nunnery, only to learn it is closed due to a tax strike.
12/4/86 - Last day in Kyoto. F. revives, go to handicraft center - pearls - then J & I go back to Daitokuji. Great lunch. Daisen is closed but we see 2 other temples.
12/5/86 - Good example of Kyoto bamboo woods. On last night, Mr Fuji, Asst. Manager, gives Fritz cufflinks: hje had escorted us to the doctor. Maitre D' (Mr. Odawara) gives us lovely fruit plate. Shinkansen to Tokyo and Part 3 of Chushingura (had seen Part 2 in November). Grand Kabuki! Byodo-in Temple. Another famous spot on strike; Tokyo, 12/5-9 - 12/6, Walk Ginza, shops crowded with Xmas shoppers; 12/7, Franell Gallery at Okura; F & J to Transport Museum, EJ & I do city tour, Dinner with Becky Jasper, Dave and Sharon's daughter - her Japanese family Saito; 12/8, pack, swim & massage. We have a terrific breakfast with attorney Tom Blakemore on Pearl Harbor Day; Blakemore, a friend of John Musser, drafted the Japanese constitution after WWII. 12/9, Off to Hong Kong, Set up EJ back to Chicago with a lot of our excess luggage. Sad Farewell.
12/9/86 - Tokyo to Hong Kong. After hotel check in we take ferry to H.K. & take tram to Victoria Peak. Polluted, elegant view. Dinner in Chinese restaurant where all stand around and watch us eat. No service. We decide the PRC must run it!!
Quite a city - dense, dramatic.
12/10 - A touristy, fun dinner. Our junk to Jumbo chauffeur.