Italy, March, 1987
JGH: Italy Notes
March 1 - We fly to Rome and take the train to Firenze. Meet a very interesting priest from Cologne who knows Schuller in St Paul (St. Agnes). Meet Kit Fattorini & Elena Pangioli at our pleasant apartment. Claire Buchwald has stocked the kitchen with a few necessities & some fine signs & long guide letter; Jack & kids shop, get things fixed, I have a bad cold, rest; 3/3 - To market (Tuesday) in AM, rest in PM.
Sights of Florence in our early days there; View of the city from our apartment; The Arno; At a crossroads; So cold the fountains spit ice! March 4 - Academia San Marco; March 5 - Romano's table, Pitti Palace (del shoe leather (arms dealer); March 6 - Uffizi, dinner at Elena's.
March 7 - North of Florence for the day. Monte Senario; Vecchio: Giotto's house, statue and bridge where Cemabue discovered him.
A continuation of a beautiful drive north of Firenze: Scarperia, Firenzuola, Palazzuola, Marradi & home; Firenzuola; March 8 - Ravenna, drive over the mountains with Claire Buchwald and Larry
Dante's Tomb, Ravenna; Basilica of Sant'Apollinare in Classe.
3/9 - Seicento show at Strozzi Palace, Palazzo Vecchio; 3/10 - Market with Claire Buchwald, see 1 of 3 oldest Firenze churches, Opera and Duomo COLD!; 3/11 - Duomo and Baptistry, F & J to concert; 3/12 - Walk, read and rest. Dinner with Kit and Piero; 3/13 - Santa Maria Novella Baighello. K. to party with Francesca Fattorini.
March 14 - Pisa. Tower, Cathedral, Baptistry & burial area; pre-Pisa, Lucca.
View of Duomo & Baptistry from Tower; Cemetery.
March 15 - Sienna. Beautiful drive to a beautiful city; Shell-shaped 'square'; Striped Duomo; Library in Cathedral; Library. Stop in San Geminiano on way home; 3/16 - Read Decameron and Inferno; 3/17 - Santa Croce, church, museum & cloisters. Dinner Becca Moise; 3/18 - Lunch at Omeco's with Irma (met in Egypt), see Piazza Michelangelo & San Minian
3/19 - Sick, J.K. Romano; 3/20 - San Lorenzo church and Medici chapels. Lunch at Irena's and to Romano's; March 21 - Assisi. St. Mary of the Angels Basilica; St. Francis Basilica; Porziuncola where Francis consecrated Chiesa as Bride of Christ.
Medieval castle, Assisi; Piazza del Commune & Temple of Minerva; Carceri Hermitage, then also Convent of San Damiano for Vespers.
March 22 - Medici Villa outside Florence; 3/23 - San Mauro.
March 23 - To San Leo and San Marino; San Leo; Entry to San Marino; View of San Marino from San Leo.
3/24 - Medici Riccardi, Laurentian Library; 3/25 - Casa Dante & Casa Davonzati; 5/26 - The Florence Experience. Casas Guidi & Buonarotti closed; 3/27 - Irena's birthday. Lunch at San Gemigniani; Followed by coffee at her country home.
March 28 - Arezzo (most Piero della Francesca paintings in restoration).
From Arezzo we go trace further Piero della Francesca at Menarchi (pictured here) then to lovely gem of museum in San Sepolcro; March 29 - K goes skiing, F,J & L go to San Miniato al Monte...
...then on to Vinci to see Leonardo's home & museum of his inventions; 3/30 - Lunch with Michael & Francesca Karnel at our house; 3/31 - Santa Trinita, Vasari Corridor at Uffizi (with Irma) then more reading; 4/1 - S. Annunziata, Hospital of Innocents, Castogni Last Supper.
April 2 - Drive in rain to Roma; Our lovely hotel in Roma; April 3 - Vatican City; Vatican Museums in the morning; Optical illusion.
Sistine Chapel, cleaned section; St. Peter's.
April 4 - Hadrian's Villa, splendid!
Tivoli Gardens.
The Forum.
Pines of Rome; Palatine Hill; Coliseum
Appian Way. Followed by Quo Vadis Church, Spanish Steps and walking around Rome; Lovely Baroque architecture; Andrea del Valle Church, then to Jesu Church, Keats House, Capuchin Crypt.
April 6 - Protestant Cemetery.
We spend a wonderful afternoon here reading Shelley, Keats and Byron.
4/6 - St. Peter's Outside the Walls; Also Maria Maggiore, St. John Lateran.
April 7 - Roma. Castel Sant Angelo; Pantheon; St. Ignatius; View from Castel Sant Angelo.
The off to a park in N. Roma to read more of the Romantic poets; 4/8 - Vatican Museum in AM, St. Peter's, back to Firenze; 4/9 - Clean up and preparation for our next adventure.
April 10-11 - Milan. Milan Cathedral; April 10 - We pick up our Volvo in Bolgna, then get Stephen Doyle at Milan airport, check into our hotel, go top Brea Museum, walk around town; 4/11 - Go to Milan Cathedral then off to Lake Garda & Verona; St. Bartholomew, flayed, holds his skin.
4/11 - Verona, a beautiful city; We see a foot race.
Verona: Romans and Romeo & Juliet. the Roman Coliseum, site of summer opera; Toward Juliet's tomb.
Juliet's balcony; Dante.
April 12 - Venice. Cathedrals and Doge's Palace.
April 13 - Venetia. Bridge of Sighs.
4/13 - Galleria Academia. Peggy Guggenheim's House, Treasury Show (Doge's Palace); Peggy Guggenheim's House; At end of day take boat to Murano to see glass; April 14 - Padova University. See Giotto frescoes then Jack discovers he's lost his wallet. Go back to Venice for it! Too late for University of Padua tour (wanted to see Harvey's operating room).
At Anthony of Padova, testimonials to his healing powers; 4/14 - Back to Firenze to mail, news that apartment was broken into (nothing to steal) and that K. is into Barnard; 4/15 - Hair perm, clean up, J, F & S tour Florence; 4/16 - Jack gets cart burning tickets, Olsons come in.
Pisa.
4/16 - Villa Pucini & Via Reggio., where Shelley dreamed; 4/17 - Tour Firenze with Olsons, San Lusisto[?], Palazzo Vecchio, etc.
4/18 - Sienna & San Gemigniano with the Olsons.
April 19 - Easter and the Cart Burning; the Cart in Parade.
Cart brought to the Cathedral.
We walk home then drive to American War Cemetery and locate tablet to brother of Doyle neighbor; Lunch with Spakes & Olsons at La Rampa, then up to Fiesole & Monte Senario; 4/20 - Lucca, Pisa, San Miniato & Vinci with Olsons; 4/21 - Firenze with Olsons, Jack leads.
4/22 - Uffizi, then lunch at Omero; 4/23 - More Firenze sights with Olsons, superb company!
4/24 - Olsons leave, Dunnettes arrive in afternoon; 4/25 - J & K drive Stephen to Milan. Tour Firenze with Dunnettes; Photos courtesy of Leaetta Hough Dunnette.
4/26 - Montecatini Terme, Callodi, Bagni de Luca, Barga, Pisa - lovely day; 4/27 - Firenze tour, lunch with Kornelas; 4/28 - San Marco, Accademia, Uffizi; 4/29 - Puti, then lunch with Irena, Isaya Frenascero.
S. Margherita a Montici (Florence, Italy).
4/30 - Valterra at last!
Etriscan city of Valterra; Certaldo, Bocaccio's birthplace.
The countryside around Firenze, our last days in Tuscany; 4/26 - Barga, a beautiful organ concert.
Last views of Firenze from our apartment; Our Firenze table, chairs and bench from Romano.