Turkey, June, 1996
6/13/96 - Thursday, Fly KLM (comp upgrade to Business Class!) to Amsterdam, land 6/14/96 -on to Istanbul, Conrad Hotel, nap, then fireworks for end of Habitat Conference! Saturday, 6/15 - Breakfast among 'big boat cruisers' in their long dresses (for Muslims), some complaining of room size! then grab Amex City Tour. First stop Suleyman mosque, largest in Istanbul; Inside, a 2 week old purdah screen , sign of surging fundamentalism, guide tried to ignore in this 'secular' country.
Next stop, the Blue Mosque; Mayor of Gaza and his wife who is newly elected to Palestinian legislature.
The famous Hagia Sofia; Love among the ruins.
Some gorgeous mosaics.
The Sea of Marmaram looking East to 'Asian' Istanbul, from Topkapi; Entrance to Topkapi Palace, afternoon of Saturday, 6/15/96 - on our own.
President Palace; 6/15 - Eve meet Hills at airport and fly to Izmir (Smyrna); Jack befriends luggage handlers in Izmir, go to Kusadasi by bus; Mehmet Surgedikli, on plane wants to give us rayon shirts and invest, he sells to Russians.
6/16/96 - Ephesus! Home of Cybelle/Artemis (Father's Day)
Public potties
No child laborers; Mulberry leaves and cigarette-size silkworms; Cooking cocoons.
After rugs, to St. Mary's, where Jesus's mother lived(?) to museum and to John's basilica. Great; Storks perform same role in Turkey as U.S.!
Monday, June 17 - 5 hours by bus from Kusadasi to Gocer.
We board China Belle and Captain Hugh Davies takes us to sea; We go to a cove for lunch, the first of the rock tombs; After lunch and a swim I begin to become a U.R., a Useless Reptile.
That evening we dock at a cove (Cosgroves and Bectons are also there) and a restaurant springs into life!! (is unlicensed, so periodically the authorities trash it!); The kitchen; Jack and Hills by the bar.
Tuesday, June 18 - We first survey last night's port, for other party members; We spend the day and night here, at this city of unknown origins.
In the afternoon we explore the city on the hill.
Dinner picked up by boat and rushed to another beach restaurant, lots of fun.
Wednesday, June 19 - We head to Greece, Castelorizo, where we spend the night; Looks like a movie set; A restauranteur greets us, "Welcome to Europe."
Ikra arrives; Fred Dupree and Chapin.
Thursday, June 20 - We leave Kastellorizo and sail across straits to Cas, huge waves, Hugh makes a deft '1 shot only' landing despite tight port entrance, and swimmers (Jan tells of last such entry to Cas where they heavily damage boat! gulp). Just in and beginning to relax after walk through town, when a gulet captain jams his way into too tight space in a show of nationalism (threatens to hit Hugh with a board); Pays off harbormaster, never queries non-Turk captains; The 'boys' relax afterward; No dinner, just walk town.
Friday, June 21 - Up early to visit amphitheatre, Gulet left at 5AM! Greece looks inviting at dawn.
Tomb.
The ubiquitous Ataturk; Happy to leave, though a pleasant town; Cas from a distance.
We go to a delightful bay for swim, lunch, and exploration of a necropolis - this one unnamed, there are so many! Water so salty, easy to float.
We then sail around to Kekova for a fleet rendezvous and dinner. Hugh gives a town tour.
Ancient arches, tombs and buildings are part of 'downtown' fabric.
Have a great party, though a bit caste like, sit out on dock with Cosgroves.
Saturday, June 22 - We take a van from Kekova to Myra, site of more rock tombs and home of St. Nicholas.
Despite warnings, our intrepid group investigates the 'dangerous' rock tombs; St. Nick and his basilica.
We leave Kekova and go to a cove where we swim and windsurf. Lovely night spent there; Jack a bit shaky, Lou, a coach a bit smoother; Philip our crew, dear young man; Boats in neighboring cove.
Sunday, June 23 - We sail back to Kastellorizo, swim at hotel and climb up to monastery; On the way to K. we pass the Alcofrolic, not seen since Gocek.
Monday, June 24 - It gets really hot in port, have to stay at sea as much as possible; Kalkan, 3PM, waiting for bus to tour 3 sites: Patara, Xanthos & Letoon; Patara Beach?! Site 1, driver takes us to beach!! We have to walk back to ruins of Patara; Amphitheatre amidst ruins.
Next stop: Xanthos. Here we meet up with Hodders and Hamms. Slightly miffed that we haven't waited to go together.
Guide explains Lycian Pillar; Site 3: Letoon. We welcome end of hot day.
Pleasant dinner with Hamms and Hodders (&H&H)
Tuesday, June 25 - Leave port at 5AM to sail around 7 capes to Fetiye. I lie flat eating crackers with bag at hand (unused!). I race off boat in port, head for hotel pool (so hot), whereupon Toby Cosgrove organizes a paragliding expedition. Anita C. suggest she and I go to take photos. We end up on a 45 minute drive (6000 ft highZ) on tortuous timber road; We treat Philip; Top of mountain is a moonscape. The ride is so bad, even I am ready to jump off!
Jack runs and gets aloft; We drive to beach and meet the gang.
Wednesday, June 26 - Jack and Susie go paragliding then we head out to sea for, our last lunch, our last cove swim, before heading into Gocek for our final festive group victuals; We called her 'Socks'
Thursday, June 27 - We leave Gocek at 9AM and drive to Dalaman to fly to Istanbul, check into Cinar Hotel, then hire driver to take us on a 4 hour city tour. 'Fast Eddie' is a getaway-driver type, great English; Cinar: site of Pres' daughter wedding that night; Drive to Asian side to look over city; Park, which used to feature bikinis now has veiled and conservatively dressed women; Boy on way to circumcision (odd age only)
Head next to Topkapi. Jack takes Hills to see emeralds. I go to the harem. Exquisite but claustrophobic.
You never left the harem; Men and women around Blue Mosque.
Last stop, Grand Bazaar. Only tourists shop here but nicely done (no sale for us); O.J. break; Shoe shine. Kurd kids try to sell tops; Lovely final dinner overlooking Marmara Sea and wedding cum fireworks. Leave 3AM for Amsterdam and home to go to Seattle for 30th anniversary celebration!
