Thursday, January 6, 2005 - We arrive in Tripoli and check in to the Corinthia; Lovely room, view over the Mediterranean; Group photo taken for Tripoli Post.
We walk from hotel to the Souk; Signs link Libya and French Independence; Carol Lilyholm and Sylvia Sabo; Corinthia from the Medina; Old City wall at sunset; a peek of the Mediterranean.
Libyans cordial, not angry or pushy toward each other & us Americans. Very pleasant; The Souk at sunset; A barbershop in the Souk, few merchants allow photos; Friday, January 7 - we head East to Leptis Magnus; Stop at a market for water. Isam, our dear guide; Sylvia and chickens; Ali, our wonderful bus driver.
Leptis Magna is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Founded by Phoenician merchants ca. 1000 BC, L.M. rose to its height under Libyan-born Emperor, Septimus Severus (193-211 AD); Arch of Septimus Severus, 4-way triumphal arch; Sharply incised arch decorations; Magnificent Hadrian Baths, 127 AD. Marble used for structure and ornament; Group toilet with good ventilation! Palestra is in background; Miscalibrated potty hole marble seats.
Only 30% has been excavated. In 1920s Mussolini sent archaeologists and soldiers to excavate; Railcars and bulldozers (not trowels and screens) were used to restore glory; New Forum. Severus created in 200 AD. Colonnade arches spring from the capitals; Medusa et al; Cold Plunge Bath, I believe.
Magnificent theatre. Augustan age, 1-2 AD. Renovated by Caracalla. Scenae especially well preserved; Severus' Basilica. 3-aisled hall with apse at each end. His son, Caracalla, completed it in 216 BC. 5th C. became a church; Columns of red Egyptian granite; 10 medallions - 0-9 months of pregnancy
Saturday, January 8, 2005 - We spend the morning meeting at the very impressive Eye Hospital; Julie and Nycky with two doctors at the Pharmacists' reception. we get blue mugs made by Pharmacy Director; In the lab; Dr. Suad Fituri, Hospital Director, and Dr. Julie Switzer; View of Tripoli from hospital windows, looking South.
Tripoli Mosque; Green Square in Tripoli, site of rallies and parades; Karamanli Mosque
Marcus Aurelius Arch, 163 AD, made of marble. Nicely frames a minaret; Sylvia's glasses reflect arch et al; A walk in the Medina.
Old French Embassy, now artists' studios and a gallery; Digital poster on city wall celebrating man-made river; Down from the reservoir top. Cheaper than desalinization? Sunday, January 9, 2005 - We visit man-made river; Water is pumped from aquifers in the South to agricultural areas and Northern cities; Engineer explains man-made river controls. A Korean partnership.
Guide, Eamad (police) & Ali atop the reservoir; One of the water pipes, the group within; We stop by a camel market; A camel noses my camera; Sheila dances as we leave.
Sunday afternoon - We are greeted at the Vocational Training Center with song and dance; Woman shows us her handiwork; Before we board the bus.
Monday, January 10 - We start the day with a visit to an orphanage. Gaddafi has made the care and raising of orphans a priority; Julie, Carol, Jill & social worker; Kids sing to us at the tops of their lungs. New suits with labels on cuffs; After lunch we meet with Bishop Martinelli, born in Libya of an Italian father and Berber mother; Young nun of Missionaries for Charity.
Tuesday, January 11 - Sobratha, West of Tripoli. Tripoli: 3 Cities: Leptis Magna, Sobratha & OEA (today's Tripoli); Sobratha was founded by Phoenicians as a trading post then shaped by the Romans after the destruction of Carthage in 146 BC; Sobratha was destroyed by vandals in 455 AD; Delegates in front of theatre, probably built during reign of Emperor Commodos, 161-192; Theatre detail; Theatre, reconstructed by Italians.
Isam, our great guide; Venus, having been wafted in upon the scud so that her gossamer garments cling; Prime real estate.
Ali and his wife's family; Isam and Ali with Isam's hat and bag; Wednesday, January 12 - We fly to Benghazi; Tripoli Airport (domestic) located at former US Wheels Airbase.
Sheila, Carol, Isam, LLH and Nycky Pre-lunch tour of Benghazi market; Man with Gaddafi and Libya pins is thrilled to meet Americans.
He kindly led us to shop where Sylvia could buy harissa.
Thursday, January 13, 2005 - Cyrene. Founded in 631 BC by Greek emigrants from Thera, commanded by Delphic Oracle to go to North Africa. Cyrene became a great intellectual Hellenistic center; The Forum; Gateway to the Forum; Carol touches mosaics.
Odeon; Theatre. Gorgeous; A naval monument; Yet more to be explored, outside the city walls.
Caryatids; 4 for bridge? Temple of Apollo.
Frigidarium; Two of the Nine Muses? Cyrene mosaics in its museum.
Funereal statues.
Nearby Temple of Zeus; By Jove!
Apollonia. Cyrene's port since 7th C. BC; Most monuments date from Roman Imperial and Byzantine time. The Central Basilica; Earthquakes of 365 and 400 AD destroyed Roman buildings, providing building materials for basilicas et al; eastern Basilica; Mary & Sheila, matched dresses; Carol and Julie.
Jill and Sylvia; Lovely theatric setting.
Friday, January 14 - We leave Aozou for Benghazi with stops along the way; Qasr Libiam two basilicas and Turkish fort; 50 great mosaics, now in museum; Lighthouse of Alexandria & bronze statue of Helios; Pillared church facade, tasseled curtains.
Tigris; Euphrates; Kastalia, Delphi nymph.
Ptolemais, head archaeologist, is our guide; Founded in 3rd C BC as port for Bar. capital of Libya superior province during Diocletian's reign (284-305) & capital of Pentapolis, 5th C AD; Remains of Arch of Constantine (311-312 AD); Atop the Cistern; Exploring Cistern tunnels.
Columned palace, 2nd - 1st C. BC; Western Basilica, I believe.
Being interviewed by the Tripoli Post.
Saturday, January 15 - Dinner at Chah Abaza's in Cairo; Ashraf; Hezmet Mamfouz's brother. Cousin.
